Archive for the Category ◊ Culture ◊

23 Dec 2008 It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas
 |  Category: Culture  | 2 Comments

Which is, I guess, the only title you could give to this post :).

So, the holiday decorations are out.  Madrid is very proud of its decorative lighting, and apparently some areas hire professional designers to do avant-gard things with the lights.  We have only started to tour around to look at decorations.

For one thing, highly stylized glass or plexiglass “trees” seem to be en vogue.

Christmas tree in downtown Madrid

Christmas tree in downtown Madrid

We hope to go back when it’s dark, so we can see this tree lit up.

We also saw some similar ideas while we were visiting Pisa, Italy and its surroundings for Terran’s work conference.  (We plan to do a whole post about that, but this one seemed more timely :). )

Glass Christmas tree in Luca, Italy

Glass Christmas tree in Luca, Italy

The conference sprung for a guided tour of Luca, Italy as an afternoon excursion, and our tour guide told us that this tree had cost €40,000, more than she thought the city really needed to spend on a holiday decoration.  It was designed by a famous designer, though I didn’t catch his name, and I’m sure I wouldn’t have recognized it.

Certain areas of Madrid have gone all-out with lights:

Lights on a street to the west of our apartment

Lights on a street to the west of our apartment

And some companies are well-known for dramatic light displays on their buildings.  Even our tour book and the Madrid tourism website points out the department store El Corte Inglais is worth walking by.  (BTW: We learned from our Spanish instructor that, “corte inglais” is a cut for a man’s suit coat.)

El Corte Anglais

El Corte Inglais

You can’t see it in the picture, but the snowflakes are actually “dripping” little drops of light that flow down the side of the building.

When walking through the plaza by our apartment at dusk, we were surprised by some not-Christmas.  We walked by a pavilion that sported the sign “Feliz Jánuca,” which we couldn’t make sense of until we said it aloud: Hanukkah!  It turned out to be a big menorah-lighting ceremony with what sounded like a reading from the Torah and singing in Hebrew.  Several news services were out to film it.  We, of course, didn’t have a camera.

We hope to do more of a walking tour of Madrid’s decorations over the holiday break.  Hooray!  This is my last day of work until January 3.  By that time, we hope to be settled in London.  We got our UK visas yesterday and made most of the travel reservations the same afternoon.  Yay for plans pushed to the last minute by red tape actually turning out all right.

20 Dec 2008 Thanksgiving in Madrid
 |  Category: Food!  | Leave a Comment

So, this is a back post to the holiday.  We took the pictures and talked about it, but somehow we didn’t actually manage to post anything.

So, Thanksgiving rolled around, and we wanted to come up with some way to celebrate it.

Problem 1: Our family is all in the United States.

Problem 2: We have a tiny two-burner stove, one medium-sized stew pot, and no oven.

Problem 3: We couldn’t find any turkey, and we probably didn’t have anything large enough to cook it if we could.

(We actually did find a turkey later at a dedicated poultry shop.  There weren’t any at the butcher shop.)

So, being dedicated foodies, we hatched a plan to make a Thanksgiving dinner as reminiscent of home as possible.  We bought a whole chicken.  Then we cut up half a whole wheat baguette that had gone hard and mixed it with sauteed mushrooms, onions, thyme, sage, and butter to make stuffing.

(As a side note, we looked in five stores, trying to find sage.  We’d given up when we ducked into the last place, a specialty shop that sold, among other things, Peter Pan peanut butter for €4.50 per jar.  It had it.  Joy!  It didn’t turn out to be GREAT sage. There were still woody stems in it that we had to pick out while we ate, but it tasted great.)

So, we browned the sides of the chicken on the skillet in butter, stuffed it with the baguette stuffing (which turned out to be just the right amount — lucky), and shoved it in the stew pot with about a half-inch of chicken broth.  Then we covered and cooked on low for about two hours.  The effect was similar to slow-cooking or using a turkey bag.  Here’s what our compromise looked like:

Thanksgiving chicken

Thanksgiving chicken

We will NOT be sorry to trade out the kitchen in this apartment to the larger, nicer one in the UK.  Literally only one person can be in this kitchen at a time, and sometimes that’s too many people.  Here’s what we were up against:

Our half-chef kitchen

Our half-chef kitchen

We had the stuffed chicken with boiled new potatoes with butter and salt.  I don’t know what kind these potatoes are, but they taste very good that way.  And I was skeptical, but Terran was able to get enough drippings to make a nice gravy, though we didn’t have any giblets.

We got to eat this masterpiece while talking to our family over Skype.  Dad and I set up a video conference call, and everyone having dinner at my parents’ place had a chance to say hello across the ocean.

In the spirit of sharing food with people, we made some pancakes and gave them to the nice old lady and her husband who we share a clothesline with.  We told them in our broken Spanish that today was a holiday in the United States for sharing food with family and friends.  Our family was all back in the United States, but we wanted to share some food with them. She appreciated it, and she later told us they were very good.

We also attempted to make chocolate-chip cookies in our toaster oven.  This involved finding a recipe that used baking soda, since we couldn’t find baking powder (it later turned up in a huge cannister at a speciality shop, but we didn’t buy it).  As we expected, this turned out to be tilting at windmills.  You CAN make cookies in our toaster oven, but it heats so unevenly that you can only make them one at a time.  After we made a few, we gave up and ate the dough.  Ha!  No way to fail!

13 Dec 2008 Reflections on Vancouver
 |  Category: Daily Life, World views  | One Comment

So now that I have left Vancouver again, I guess it’s time to write a bit about my trip there.  That is, a bit more than the bleary impressions that first night. more…

27 Nov 2008 Travel inefficiencies
 |  Category: Daily Life  | Leave a Comment

As certified cheapskates, we want to be as economic as possible in most of our lives, and especially when we travel.  Our goal is to see as much cool stuff as we can, while not breaking the bank in the process.  So we cook for ourselves when we can, often stay at hostels, take public transit when possible, etc.

But we’ve discovered that you just have to accept a certain amount of “economic inefficiency” when traveling.  Indeed, sometimes it’s not only necessary, but welcome. more…

22 Nov 2008 In-cognates
 |  Category: Adventures in Translation  | 2 Comments

Following up on the previous linguistic post, the other thing that we language newbies need to be wary of, of course, are words that we think we know what mean, but really don’t.  If you’ve studied another language at all — especially any Romance or Germanic languages, which have so much in common with English — you’ve run across these.  Fiendish word traps, waiting to ambush you with your ignorance.  Here are a couple I’ve noticed in the Spanish-English interface.  I’m quite sure that there are many more hiding out there, ready to zorch me.

  • Titular In English: a position having the appearance of power, but not actually having any real power or repsonsibility.  In Spanish: Title (as in job title), headline, or tenure (as in the professoriate).  In other words, something that actually has real meaning or power.
  • Constipado Sounds like a blockage of the lower intestine, doesn’t it?  Nope.  Apparently in Spanish, it means “to have a cold”.
  • Marcha Does, in fact, literally mean a march (military), among many other things (e.g., gear as in transmission).  But apparently in Madrid, in a social context, it means “lively” or “nightlife” and ir a marcha is to go out on the town.
  • Eso es Literally, “that’s it”, more loosely, “exactly”.  But if you say it quickly, you’ll discover, as the Italian student in our Spanish class did, that it sounds very much like “S.O.S.”…
  • Último/a Last.  In English, “ultimate” may technically mean the last (whence, “the rule of the antepenultimate accented syllable”), but usually we think of it as “best” or “greatest”.  (And, for geeks of a certain age, a series of addictive computer RPGs, which never seemed to actually reach el último.)

And we’re in Barcelona this weekend (more on that later), where the dominant language is Catalan, and proper means next.  (As opposed to Castellano Spanish, in which próximo/a is next.)

Also, another one for the “lingusitic minefield” category: caña means “small glass of beer” (popular order in cervezarias).  On the other hand, coño means “cunt”.  Ouch.

20 Nov 2008 Epic Technology Fail (Or: How not to buy train tickets in Spain)
 |  Category: Mirror World  | One Comment

So, we’ve been learning a lot about how to travel in Europe by gallivanting around and getting it wrong.

For example, we spent all week trying to buy train tickets to Barcelona for the weekend.  We USED to be able to buy these online with our credit card.  This time, we kept getting an error that our transaction could not go through.  Calls to our credit card company indicated that the transaction had never even been submitted to them.  Combine this with the fact that a normal experience on the Renfe website is a minor nightmare: it can’t remember what language it is using, and it constantly forgets your search results.

After a lot of growling and gnashing of teeth, we did some searching around to figure out what might be wrong.  And we found some enlightening and colorful descriptions of the Renfe website.

Trip Advisor says: “The website is a bit surreal. It is like Alice in Wonderland, where nothing seems to be what it really is.”

Other sites indicate that things will work and fail to work apparently randomly, so don’t take it too seriously.

Additionally, it turns out that Spanish credit cards actually have more security features than American ones.  Sites may just blindly try to communicate the Spanish protocol to your American credit card company and get confused.

New solution?  Just walk down the street to a travel agent and pay a 2€ fee to have them buy and print the tickets for you.  Yes, a travel agent.  You remember those.

19 Nov 2008 Linguistic minefields
 |  Category: Adventures in Translation  | One Comment

So we’ve all heard about those linguistic traps for the newbies to a given language.  Words and idioms that are almost, but not quite, pronounced or structured identically, but with embarassingly different meanings.  Like the Japanese words for “cute” and “godzilla ugly” that differ only by the length of a vowel sound.  shudder Or John F. Kennedy’s classic faux pas, “I am a jelly donut”.  (“Resident of Berlin” differs from “Jelly donut originating in Berlin” only by an article.)

Since Susan and I are struggling to learn intro Spanish, we’ve been trying to keep an eye out for some of these.  So far, we’ve identified only a couple of clear ones, though I’m sure that there are many more out there waiting to trap us.  ;-)

  • Año means “year”, while ano means “anus”.  Yay.  There’s an easy one to screw up while describing yourself.
  • If you’ve had a few years of French in High School (as both of us have), you would be tempted to pronounce the European city Paris as “pah-ree”.  However, your Spanish instructor will point out that en español, those sounds are interpreted as “parí”, meaning “I gave birth”.  Not the best way to describe your recent holiday trip.

We have also been running the reverse exercise: what are the linguistic traps in English?  It’s hard to figure them out as a native speaker, of course, because the words are so transparently different to us.  But we did notice that “can’t” differs from a very naughty word only by a vowel sound.  ;-)

Any other ideas out there?  Or suggestions on other Spanish traps to beware of?

17 Nov 2008 A few more things that that are not like the others
 |  Category: Mirror World  | Leave a Comment

So here are a few more Mirror World tidbits about Madrid:

Almost all the doors to businesses open inward, like a house.  This would be against fire code in the US, I think, because if there were a stampede out of the building, everyone would be trapped against a door they can’t open.  However, a FEW doors open outward.  The door to International House, where we take our Spanish class, opens outward.  Common visual signals are also wrong, since there are often decorative pull-handles on the push side.  So we’re pretty much guaranteed to try to open every door the wrong way first.

In the US, if you’re in a car planning to turn left or right, and the crosswalk over your destination street has pedestrians on it, you generally don’t turn until the path is clear.  In Madrid, cars turn anyway, then stop with their bumper just into the crosswalk, and sit there half in the intersection until you get out of their way.  When I see this happening, I always think the car is going to hit me.

Most grocery stores don’t have pushcarts.  Instead, they have little plastic baskets on wheels that you tug behind you like a rollerbag.  A lot of people also have light canvass rollerbags that they use to carry larger purchases home on foot.  You usually can’t take these rollerbags into stores, so there are places just inside the door for people to lock them up with bike locks.

Fewer things are self-serve.  One of the grocery stores we use employs a full-time grocer to bag, weigh, and put prices on your produce choices.  A lot of stores are small, with the majority of their stock in the back, and you’re expected to request what you want from the shopkeeper.  This is a bit of a challenge for the language-impaired.  Our experience buying a litter box and supplies for our soon-to-arrive cats with no Spanish was pretty amusing.

Visa/Mastercard is definitely not everywhere you want to be.  The economy is almost entirely cash.  In the US, we generally carry around a small amount of cash and expect to use our credit card for most purchases.  Here, most places don’t take credit cards, and some that do won’t take an International one.  This probably contributes to Madrid’s high rate of petty crime, since people carry around so much more cash.  When Terran’s pocket was picked, we were carrying at least 3x the cash we would have expected to carry in the US.

The order of operations for the ATM is different than we expect.  After you finish making your request, the machine spits out your card first, then whirs for a bit, then finally spits out your cash, followed by your receipt.  This was very disconcerting the first couple of times but, you have to admit, it seems like a reasonable protocol.  Probably reduces the number of times that cards get left behind by accident.

A common kitchen implement in cooking stores is a special slicing rack for ham legs.  This should not have been a surprise, but it was.

10 Nov 2008 Our big souvenir
 |  Category: Food!, Places and Sights  | 2 Comments

So, SB and I aren’t big souvenir collectors.  We tend to enjoy writing travel diaries (like this one!) and taking pictures over buying items that will remind us of a place.  That is, unless we find EXACTLY the right item.

So, we have our souvenir from our trip to Spain.  It’s a sentoku knife of made of Damascus steel.  (A sentoku knife is a Japanese chef’s knife — almost the same as a normal chef’s knife, but with a slightly different shape that we’re geeky enough to prefer.)  We bought it on our trip to Toledo on Saturday.

You might want to click the picture to really see the wavy patterns in the steel.

Damascus steel cooking knife from Toledo

Damascus steel cooking knife from Toledo

Toledo is THE place for Damascus steel.  Toledo is filled with shops selling all variety of Toledo steel: fancy tableware, hunting knives, full plate armor, decorative artwork, you name it.  And let’s not forget swords — replica swords from all nationalities and time periods.  In fact, many of the ornamental swords for our armed forces come from there.

And for the more media-minded, movie prop reproductions like these from The Lord of the Rings.

Reproduction helmet and gauntlet of Sauron

Reproduction helmet and gauntlet of Sauron

But the cool thing about a chef’s knife is that Terran and I cook like crazy people.  We’ve been whining about the lack of a good cooking knife in our apartment since we got here.  This is something that is special to the area, pretty, and we’ll use it constantly, even when we get home.  That’s an exciting kind of souvenir, something that kind remind you of a cool place that you will use almost every day.

06 Nov 2008 More food explorations
 |  Category: Food!  | 2 Comments

We’ve been meaning to post more food observations for some time… more…