This is the final chapter in our Moorish architechture extravaganza in Andausia. Say that three times fast.
On Sunday, we spent the day in the Mezquita de Córdoba, a mind-blowing mosque dating from the 800s.
It’s actually pretty simplistic to call the Mezquita a mosque. It’s actually sort of a testament to the cycle of religious conquest in the region. A Vizigoth Christian church was torn down to build it, though the story is that the Emir actually purchased the land from the town of Córdoba. When Córdoba was (re)conquered by the Spanish in the 1100s (?), it was dedicated as a Catholic church. Then the Moors took it back and turned it back into a mosque. Then Ferdinand III took it back, and it became a cathedral again. It’s still in use as a cathedral, actually. It’s amazing to me as an American, where 200 years is old, that a building over 1000 years old is still in active use.
It’s hard to describe just how emotionally powerful it is to walk around in this building.
Mezquita arches
The Mezquita was built in four distinct phases. Legend has it that the first phase, which went up in the early 800s, was completed in 10 months. Our little audioguide states that this wasn’t entirely implausible, since all the columns were clearly stolen from elsewhere. Each column is unique — different stone, different finishing style.
The dim lighting is actually pretty much the way it was then as well. The mosque was supposed to be mysterious, with most of the light and attention going to the worship center facing Mecca.
Ornamentation around the worship center of the mosque
In the 1600s, King Alfonso X oversaw the construction of a full-scale Renaissance cathedral right in the middle of the massive mosque. The contrast of architectures in amazing to behold.
Cathedral in the center of the mosque
A lot of people have commented on the absurdity of the brightly-lit, white-and-gold frescoed cathedral in the center of the ancient Moorish columns, but I personally thought the contrast was beautiful.
Apparently, in the 1900s, there was a way-too-late flap about the hacking of this magnificent Moorish building for religious reasons. Some of the Catholic shrines were torn out and an attempt was made to restore the original mosque. There was a bitter, self-justifying pamphet distributed by the cathedral congregation at the entrance. It seems odd to me that anyone should need to justify decisions made 400 years ago — this is just how things were done then, and hundreds and even thousands of years before. It was part of the cycle of conquest. The fact that the mosque is standing at all is a tribute to its beauty and uniqueness.
