Archive for ◊ 2008 ◊

31 Dec 2008 Here We Are!
 |  Category: Uncategorized  | 3 Comments

London, UK, just in time to ring in the New Year!  (If we have any energy left, that is!)  For the moment, we’re just delighted to be stable and in a lovely new place to live.  The house we’re renting here is beautiful and a vast step up from our tiny apartment in Spain.  (Pictures soon, hopefully.)

Now, for dinner.  Ah, the delights of speaking the native language.  You can ask the nice people on teh Internets to bring you food, and *poof* Chicken Tikka Masala at your doorstep.  Just like that!  Oh, the heady decadence of the modern age…

31 Dec 2008 Off to London!
 |  Category: Uncategorized  | Leave a Comment

It’s 11:30 PM here in Madrid and Susan and I have finally finished handing off cats to shippers, packing, cleaning crap out of fridge, sending stuff back home or ahead to London, freaking out, printing airline tickets, double checking, having dinner, cleaning dishes, triple checking, repacking, yelling at local ISP, watching some unwind TV, yelling at ISP again, and taking out last loads of trash.  Whew!

We’re leaving behind miscellaneous bits of trash and stuff that’s more weight than it’s worth to carry.  But we’re taking with us a huge load of experiences, memories, new people, and bits of a new language.  It has been a stressful phase, at times, but a wonderful one overall.  We both agree that we’re excited to be off to London, but we’re also terribly sad to be leaving here.  In many ways, it seems like 4 months is only long enough to make a start.

Now for a shower and sleep.  Tomorrow: London!  Watch out UK, here we come!

30 Dec 2008 Christmas in Madrid
 |  Category: Culture, Food!  | One Comment

We had a very nice Christmas here with more fellowship than we were really expecting.

I was suddenly struck by a clue-by-four in December and went looking for an English-language Christian church.  I have no idea why that didn’t occur to me sooner.  One Google search of “English language Christian church” turned up Community Church of Madrid, which turned out to be a fantastically welcoming congregation formed from a core of English-speaking expats and a lot short-timers like me.  I went to a bilingual candlelit Christmas Eve service that was co-hosted by them and a Spanish-speaking sister church.  It really put the mood back in the season for me.

In the theme of family and home, Terran made rabbit stew the way his father used to make.  Rabbit meat is more easy to buy here than in the States.  I’d never had rabbit stew before.  It was very good.  (Kind of tastes like chicken! :) )

On Christmas Day, we had an invitation from Terrans’s madrileña postdoc, who is home for the holidays, to have Christmas lunch with her family. We had a lovely time and were able to use some of our baby Spanish. The parents spoke no English, but Terran’s student’s siblings did, so we bounced back and forth between languages. At the end, they put on a children’s video for the 3-year-old, and Terran and I laughed that the Spanish was just about right for us. The food, of course, was amazing and unending, but this time I was braced for it: ham and bread and cheese for an appetizer, followed by gambinas (~prawns) cooked in butter and garlic, followed by a main course of suckling pig in the style of Segovilla, followed by a traditional dessert of turron (almond sweets) and marzipan. We’re glad we got a chance to taste suckling pig before we left, since we missed it when we actually visited Segovilla. It was amazing.

We got home in the late afternoon, which was still morning, back in the States, and called our families.  It wasn’t the same as being nearby, but it was a good time.

Now, we’re in the last day of our time here in Spain.  It’s hard to believe the time has gone so fast.  We want to find a way to hold on to the Spanish we have learned, and we hope to be able to visit Madrid again someday.  We think it is one of the undersung cities of Europe.

We still plan to post the story of our Pisa trip and hopefully a couple of other bits about Madrid, but all of that will have to come after we’re settled in London.  We fly on New Year’s Eve (tomorrow!).  The last few days have been crazy and stressful, and I’ll feel better venting about it after everything has turned out all right.  Wish us luck!

29 Dec 2008 Randomly…
 |  Category: Random fun  | 4 Comments

Ok, this is completely non-travel-related.  But it’s so strange that I had to relate it…

So I started to ask Google “Why doesn’t firefox spellchecker handle contractions correctly in gmail?” (which is one of my current tech annoyances).  But when I got as far as “why doesn’t”, the Google auto-completer helpfully recommended the following:

  1. why doesn’t he call (233 Million hits)
  2. why doesn’t glue stick to the inside of the bottle (114k)
  3. why doesn’t he like me (53.7M)
  4. why doesn’t he love me (33M)
  5. why doesn’t god heal amputees (21k)

I shit you not.

Now this tells us a couple of interesting things:

First, the top three causal interrogatives that concern the web population as a whole are (a) courtship ritual uncertainties, (b) kinetic curing properties of (likely polyvinyl acetate-based) adhesives, and (c) the theological problem of evil.

Second, the courtship rituals cluster overwhelmingly outweighs the other two.  By like 3 orders of magnitude.  Sex trumps chemistry and god every time, I guess.

Third, the courtship rituals are entirely about the behavior of the male of the species.  There are no “why doesn’t she love me?” queries.  I won’t touch that.

Finally, the most pressing query about evil concerns the (undoubted) suffering of amputees.  While clearly a pressing theological issue, one does wonder about other concerns such as war, famine, plague, crime, poverty, etc.

The web is a far stranger place…

Anyway, as a pathetic attempt to make this post at least marginally travel-related, I’ll note that fruit cocktail tastes exactly the same in Spain as it does in the US.  Ah, fond memories of preschool snack time…

23 Dec 2008 It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas
 |  Category: Culture  | 2 Comments

Which is, I guess, the only title you could give to this post :).

So, the holiday decorations are out.  Madrid is very proud of its decorative lighting, and apparently some areas hire professional designers to do avant-gard things with the lights.  We have only started to tour around to look at decorations.

For one thing, highly stylized glass or plexiglass “trees” seem to be en vogue.

Christmas tree in downtown Madrid

Christmas tree in downtown Madrid

We hope to go back when it’s dark, so we can see this tree lit up.

We also saw some similar ideas while we were visiting Pisa, Italy and its surroundings for Terran’s work conference.  (We plan to do a whole post about that, but this one seemed more timely :). )

Glass Christmas tree in Luca, Italy

Glass Christmas tree in Luca, Italy

The conference sprung for a guided tour of Luca, Italy as an afternoon excursion, and our tour guide told us that this tree had cost €40,000, more than she thought the city really needed to spend on a holiday decoration.  It was designed by a famous designer, though I didn’t catch his name, and I’m sure I wouldn’t have recognized it.

Certain areas of Madrid have gone all-out with lights:

Lights on a street to the west of our apartment

Lights on a street to the west of our apartment

And some companies are well-known for dramatic light displays on their buildings.  Even our tour book and the Madrid tourism website points out the department store El Corte Inglais is worth walking by.  (BTW: We learned from our Spanish instructor that, “corte inglais” is a cut for a man’s suit coat.)

El Corte Anglais

El Corte Inglais

You can’t see it in the picture, but the snowflakes are actually “dripping” little drops of light that flow down the side of the building.

When walking through the plaza by our apartment at dusk, we were surprised by some not-Christmas.  We walked by a pavilion that sported the sign “Feliz Jánuca,” which we couldn’t make sense of until we said it aloud: Hanukkah!  It turned out to be a big menorah-lighting ceremony with what sounded like a reading from the Torah and singing in Hebrew.  Several news services were out to film it.  We, of course, didn’t have a camera.

We hope to do more of a walking tour of Madrid’s decorations over the holiday break.  Hooray!  This is my last day of work until January 3.  By that time, we hope to be settled in London.  We got our UK visas yesterday and made most of the travel reservations the same afternoon.  Yay for plans pushed to the last minute by red tape actually turning out all right.

20 Dec 2008 Thanksgiving in Madrid
 |  Category: Food!  | Leave a Comment

So, this is a back post to the holiday.  We took the pictures and talked about it, but somehow we didn’t actually manage to post anything.

So, Thanksgiving rolled around, and we wanted to come up with some way to celebrate it.

Problem 1: Our family is all in the United States.

Problem 2: We have a tiny two-burner stove, one medium-sized stew pot, and no oven.

Problem 3: We couldn’t find any turkey, and we probably didn’t have anything large enough to cook it if we could.

(We actually did find a turkey later at a dedicated poultry shop.  There weren’t any at the butcher shop.)

So, being dedicated foodies, we hatched a plan to make a Thanksgiving dinner as reminiscent of home as possible.  We bought a whole chicken.  Then we cut up half a whole wheat baguette that had gone hard and mixed it with sauteed mushrooms, onions, thyme, sage, and butter to make stuffing.

(As a side note, we looked in five stores, trying to find sage.  We’d given up when we ducked into the last place, a specialty shop that sold, among other things, Peter Pan peanut butter for €4.50 per jar.  It had it.  Joy!  It didn’t turn out to be GREAT sage. There were still woody stems in it that we had to pick out while we ate, but it tasted great.)

So, we browned the sides of the chicken on the skillet in butter, stuffed it with the baguette stuffing (which turned out to be just the right amount — lucky), and shoved it in the stew pot with about a half-inch of chicken broth.  Then we covered and cooked on low for about two hours.  The effect was similar to slow-cooking or using a turkey bag.  Here’s what our compromise looked like:

Thanksgiving chicken

Thanksgiving chicken

We will NOT be sorry to trade out the kitchen in this apartment to the larger, nicer one in the UK.  Literally only one person can be in this kitchen at a time, and sometimes that’s too many people.  Here’s what we were up against:

Our half-chef kitchen

Our half-chef kitchen

We had the stuffed chicken with boiled new potatoes with butter and salt.  I don’t know what kind these potatoes are, but they taste very good that way.  And I was skeptical, but Terran was able to get enough drippings to make a nice gravy, though we didn’t have any giblets.

We got to eat this masterpiece while talking to our family over Skype.  Dad and I set up a video conference call, and everyone having dinner at my parents’ place had a chance to say hello across the ocean.

In the spirit of sharing food with people, we made some pancakes and gave them to the nice old lady and her husband who we share a clothesline with.  We told them in our broken Spanish that today was a holiday in the United States for sharing food with family and friends.  Our family was all back in the United States, but we wanted to share some food with them. She appreciated it, and she later told us they were very good.

We also attempted to make chocolate-chip cookies in our toaster oven.  This involved finding a recipe that used baking soda, since we couldn’t find baking powder (it later turned up in a huge cannister at a speciality shop, but we didn’t buy it).  As we expected, this turned out to be tilting at windmills.  You CAN make cookies in our toaster oven, but it heats so unevenly that you can only make them one at a time.  After we made a few, we gave up and ate the dough.  Ha!  No way to fail!

13 Dec 2008 Reflections on Vancouver
 |  Category: Daily Life, World views  | One Comment

So now that I have left Vancouver again, I guess it’s time to write a bit about my trip there.  That is, a bit more than the bleary impressions that first night. more…

07 Dec 2008 Travel maunderings
 |  Category: Meditations  | One Comment

I am sitting in a B&B room, far from any place I could legitimately call “home”, writing this through the bleariness of jet lag and general travel fatigue as I wait for a dose of melatonin to kick in and send me off to dreamland in this time zone.  I listen to the rain of the Vancouver night drum down on the Queen Anne shingles and to the anonymous cars passing in the chill winter night, and my mind randomly wanders randomly… more…

28 Nov 2008 More Gaudí Observations
 |  Category: History and Archaeology  | 2 Comments

Susan posted a lovely overview of our trip to Barcelona and falling in love with Gaudí’s architecture.  I don’t have a huge amount of text to add on this — she’s said a lot of what I felt as well.  But I wanted to point out some architectural details that caught my fancy and that Susan hasn’t already reported.  So this is mostly pictures.  Just stuff that randomly intrigued me — don’t expect any rhyme or reason.

more…

27 Nov 2008 Travel inefficiencies
 |  Category: Daily Life  | Leave a Comment

As certified cheapskates, we want to be as economic as possible in most of our lives, and especially when we travel.  Our goal is to see as much cool stuff as we can, while not breaking the bank in the process.  So we cook for ourselves when we can, often stay at hostels, take public transit when possible, etc.

But we’ve discovered that you just have to accept a certain amount of “economic inefficiency” when traveling.  Indeed, sometimes it’s not only necessary, but welcome. more…